“世纪名厨”乔尔·卢布松的首席弟子Éric Bouchenoire及嫡传弟子Tomonori Danzaki、François Benot 与Julien Tongourian于日前在澳门新葡京酒店天巢法国餐厅举办的经典晚宴上聚首一堂，以Joël Robuchon的法式美馔，诉说关于他的传奇故事。这场非常特别的晚宴已于10月20日在天巢法国餐厅圆满举行，充分展现了Robuchon的经典美馔，亦特邀澳门特别行政区政府旅游局局长文绮华女士、法国驻香港及澳门总领事官远明先生以及法国驻广州总领事周丽君女士莅临出席。
Joël Robuchon’s family of chefs – Éric Bouchenoire, Tomonori Danzaki, François Benot, together with resident chef Julien Tongourian – reunited in Macau at Grand Lisboa Hotel to continue telling Robuchon’s story through his dishes. On October 20th, a very special Gala Dinner was held to showcase his masterful dishes at Robuchon au Dôme, where special guests of honor Ms. Maria Helena de Senna Fernandes, Director of the Macao Government Tourism Office (MGTO); Mr. Alexandre Giorgini, Consul General of France in Hong Kong and Macau and Ms. Siv Leng Chhuor, Consul General of France in Guangzhou were invited to attend.
“我们非常荣幸能够通过一场非凡的晚宴共享 Joël Robuchon 致力于达到烹饪完美境界的一生奉献以及其毕生对于美食的追求与热情。”澳门博彩股份有限公司款客服务管理董事总经理苏仲礼先生表示，“Robuchon的首席弟子及厨艺团队齐聚一堂，他们在幕后精心打造以重现Robuchon的杰作以致敬他一生致力于实现烹饪完美境界的卓越贡献。”
“We are immensely honored to have shared Robuchon’s lasting legacy through an extraordinary Gala Dinner devoted entirely toward his passion for gastronomy,” Mr. Jonas A. Schuermann, Managing Director, Hospitality Services of SJM said. “By bringing together his family of chefs, who work meticulously behind-the-scenes to recreate Robuchon’s masterpieces, we continue to celebrate his lifelong pursuit of culinary perfection.”
天巢法国餐厅行政总厨 Julien Tongourian 与 Éric Bouchenoire (Chef du Laboratoire de Creation et Coordination)、Tomonori Danzaki (Chef Conseil) 以及 François Benot (Chef Patissier Conseil from Joël Robuchon International France) 连袂精心打造八道经典菜式向 Robuchon 致敬。
Robuchon au Dôme Executive Chef Julien Tongourian worked alongside Éric Bouchenoire, Chef du Laboratoire de Creation et Coordination; Tomonori Danzaki, Chef Conseil and François Benot, Chef Patissier Conseil from Joël Robuchon International France. Together, they presented a meticulously handcrafted 8-course Gala Dinner in Robuchon’s honor.
精心打造的八道菜皆是 Robuchon 的经典美馔，旨在保留最纯正的 Robuchon 作品。其中的三道菜式是 Robuchon 最具代表性之作：鱼子酱伴椰菜花奶油及海鲜冻、淡水小龙虾云吞及烩包生菜以及法式传统煮鸡伴时菜及日本松茸。Robuchon 非凡的烹饪艺术使这些经典美食成为他烹饪技艺与情感联结的象征。
The dishes on this 8-course menu highlighted Robuchon’s classics. The goal of the menu was to preserve the authenticity of Robuchon’s work. Three dishes in particular, remain very representative of Robuchon – Le Caviar de Sologne, La Langoustine and La Poularde de Bresse. These dishes are especially symbolic of the technical and emotional bond Robuchon had with his culinary art.
鱼子酱伴椰菜花奶油及海鲜冻
Le Caviar de Sologne
这是 Robuchon 的代表菜式，因为这是他在80年代自己开设的第一家餐厅 Le Jamin 中创造出来。这道鱼子酱配有椰菜花奶油以及精致海鲜冻，随后因其备受欢迎，而出现在遍布世界各地的 Robuchon 的餐厅中，甚至成为了 Robuchon 的化身。这道菜式完美融合了鱼子酱甘醇丰盈的鲜味与幼滑的椰菜花奶油。选择特定尺寸和质地的鱼子酱对于 Robuchon 来说一直都是至关重要的，他个人最喜欢的是来自法国 Sologne 的黑鱼子酱。在这次的晚宴上，这道菜以经典的方式烹制，龙虾啫喱冻和鱼子酱被精致的椰菜花奶油覆盖，盛于碗中。虽然可以用现代材料和技术等多种方法制成啫喱冻，但 Robuchon 不希望以这种方式完成。出于对 Robuchon 的尊重并遵循传统，厨师们耗费 6 小时的工艺，用小牛肉制作肉汤，而龙虾汤则只采用新鲜的龙虾肉而非龙虾壳熬制，因此肉汤清香而纯净。至于制作奶油，厨师们在熬制过程中并没有添加额外的水份，单纯地保留了食材当本身的水份来制作出细腻的奶油。这道菜最令人着迷的是围绕鱼子酱周围呈圆状排列铺满的一颗一颗的小圆点，由厨师全神贯注以人手每颗逐一点上，每一颗圆点均是 Robuchon 完美主义的鲜明象征。
Le Caviar de Sologne is a very personal dish for Robuchon as he created it at his first restaurant, Le Jamin in the 1980s. This dish of caviar in a fine crustacean jelly with cauliflower cream, grew to be so popular, he later served it at all of his restaurants around the world and it would even go on to become Robuchon’s identity. It is a remarkable combination where the powerful flavors from the caviar blend beautifully with the softness of creamed cauliflower. The choice of caviar, which must be of a certain size and texture, has always been very important for Robuchon, and his personal favorite is black caviar from Sologne, France. For the Gala Dinner, this dish was prepared in the classic way, where the lobster jelly and caviar were covered in delicate cauliflower cream and served in a bowl. There are many ways to produce the jelly with modern ingredients and technology, but Robuchon would not want it to be done in this way. Out of respect for Robuchon and in keeping with tradition, the chefs used veal feet to make the broth, a laborious 6-hour process and for the lobster bouillon, only the fresh meat of the lobster was used and not the shell, so that the bouillon would be clear and pure. The chefs could use water, but instead they used only the ingredients themselves to create the finesse of the cream. What is most mesmerizing about this dish are the dots of sauce all around the bowl. These dots are a distinct symbol of Robuchon’s perfectionism.
淡水小龙虾云吞及烩包生菜
La Langoustine
这是 Robuchon最早期的招牌菜式之一。菜式巧妙地汇集了淡水小龙虾与松露的美妙香气，创造出陆地与海洋间完美平衡的风味。为了制作这道菜，总厨Julien与他的厨艺团队以来自大西洋的小龙虾包裹于用松露调味的云吞中。之后，用鹅肝精华点缀，并在一侧配以烩制的绿色包生菜。这道菜总结了 Robuchon的愿景：完美制作一款将所有成分的风味充分展现的简单菜肴。
La Langoustine, a scampi ravioli with braised green Savoy cabbage is also one of Robuchon’s very first signature dishes. Through La Langoustine, he has masterfully brought together the beautiful aromas of langoustine and truffle, while creating the perfect balance of land and sea. To make this dish, Chef Tongourian and his team of chefs wrapped Atlantic Scampi in a thin ravioli pastry, seasoned with truffles. They then garnished the ravioli with a light foie gras emulsion and added braised green Savoy cabbage on the side. This dish sums up Robuchon’s vision: to make simple cuisine, yet very well executed, to reveal all of the flavors of the ingredients.
法式传统煮鸡伴时菜及日本松茸
La Poularde de Bresse
Robuchon 始终坚持以最传统的方式制作这款菜式，这是一种用猪小肚、松茸和绿油烹制的法国鸡肉。为了遵循传统习俗，总厨 Julien 使用了经典的法国 en vessie 技术：在猪小肚中烹制鸡肉。首先，将鸡肉放入芳香肉汤中慢炖，然后装入像“气球”一样的猪小肚中用文火炖。这种技术使包裹的鸡肉在蒸汽中将猪小肚所有的风味悉数浸染，并将鸡肉极其柔软多汁的部分完好保留。总厨 Julien 表示，他喜欢“气球”所带来的惊喜元素，并能在上桌时激发宾客的好奇心。当他们惊奇地注视着“气球”时，服务团队将鸡肉切片并在其旁边配以香气扑鼻的鹅肝忌廉酱汁。
Robuchon insisted on making his La Poularde de Bresse, a French range chicken cooked in pork bladder, matsutake mushroom and green oil, in the most traditional of ways. In keeping with tradition, Chef Tongourian used the classic French en vessie technique to cook chicken in a pig’s bladder. First, the chicken is poached in an aromatic broth, then contained in a “balloon” and cooked in the pork bladder. This technique envelopes the chicken in steam and infuses it with all the bladder’s flavors. In this way, the remarkably tender and juicy parts of the chicken are beautifully preserved. Chef Tongourian says he loves how the “balloon” offers an element of surprise and sparks the curiosity of guests as it arrives on the table. While guests gaze at the “balloon” in wonder, the service team slices and serves the poularde with a light florette sauce and matsutake mushroom sauce on the side.
天巢法国餐厅
Robuchon au Dôme
澳门新葡京酒店
Grand Lisboa, Macau
www.grandlisboahotels.com
